It's 3 weeks into my 6 week writing sabbatical - a time for writing and reading and exploring and thinking and then some more writing. Normally, when I'm starting a new book, I head out of town for 2 weeks, to be away from everything and everybody. This year that just wasn't possible. And so I am taking my writing time at home - an adventure that has me reminding myself that I don't need to leave town to find wonder in every bit of life. My morning started as most of my mornings start since the new owners bought Crave, the café about ½ mile from my house. I head out on foot, reading and writing stuff in hand, sometimes taking a detour and getting a bit of a walk in beforehand, other times just heading straight to Crave. I spend an hour or so sitting on the couch in the corner, reading and thinking and writing and sipping Fatmir’s delicious coffee. It is the best start to my day. On the way out through the neighborhood at 6:30 in the morning, Dan is already heading into Earl’s house. Dan was our mailman for decades - the Norman Rockwell sort of mailman you’re convinced doesn’t exist until - well - until you meet Dan. Every day as he delivered the mail, Dan would stop to check on all the old people on the block. I can’t imagine how he managed it and still stayed on schedule, but he did. Stopped and rang the bell and visited, every day, with every single elderly person on our street. Dan and Earl, though - there was always something special there. And if you know Earl, it’s not surprising. Earl is 101½ (Dan mentioned this morning) - the sweetest, kindest man. When he was a bit more spry, he’d go for a walk every night, and he’d keep peanut M&M’s in his pocket, to share with people he met along the way. He would offer me a candy as if I was 7, with a huge smile, so excited to share it with me - like feeding the birds, feeding us neighborhood kids, never mind that this kid was pushing 50 at the time. I would take the candy, making an excuse about saving it till later; I didn’t have the heart to tell Earl I can’t eat chocolate.
Earl is the one who stopped by maybe a decade ago, to introduce himself and share the sunflower seeds that had been his wife’s, telling me “She always loved your garden. I want you to have these.” Earl and his wife are the reason I plant the sunflower wall out front every year. And Earl is the one who, at about age 90, began painting beautiful birds made of Devil’s Claw.
So it’s no surprise that Dan checking on Earl during his postal rounds became Dan inviting Earl to his home for Thanksgiving, and then Earl spending every holiday with Dan and his family. And now here it is 6:30 in the morning, and Dan, having retired from the post office at least 5 years ago, is there at Earl’s house, to get Earl out of bed. “I’ve been getting him up every morning, and getting him to bed every night. I'm just afraid he'll fall, and the caregiver doesn't get here till 8...” I'm almost in tears. It’s not the first time the relationship between Dan and Earl has done that to me - and I’m sure it won’t be the last...
I decide to go the long way to Crave - to add about a mile to the trip by heading north to head south, walking along the lush green of the wash to Fifth Street and then looping back to Broadway. Everyone in the neighborhood circles the wash on their walk - our green space during this rainy season. Dragonflies dart about, their wings shining in the morning light. Last week, a coyote wandered down from the foothills, following that wash, but on this day, the most exotic canine is our neighborhood Corgi walking his mom - a sweet, sweet dog that looks like the love child of a Husky and a Basset Hound, complete with the blue eyes that are just so cool in a dog. I know if I keep walking, I will continue to encounter people and critters, but it’s getting hot and sticky. Or maybe the hot flashes have skewed my perception. I know people back east would kill for 75 degrees and 45% humidity, but I’m feeling so sticky and gross I just want to get to Crave before I leave huge sweaty handprints on the books I’m carrying. It’s hard to describe Crave. Its appearance is nothing special - a simple place with really good coffee. But it is owned by the kind of darling young couple who should live on the top of a wedding cake. I’m not sure Fatmir is even 30, and I’m pretty sure Njomza is my daughter's age - 25 or so. They are newly from Kosovo, not barely a year here in the US. And I am convinced the sun comes up every morning just so it can shine on the two of them.
Fatmir and Njomza are there from 6am open to 11pm close, every single day. They have an employee who helps out mid-day, but otherwise, it is Fatmir and Njomza all day, every day. Tireless, always happy - even when, this week, we worried that Njomza might have broken her arm (it was just banged up - nothing broken). They engage everyone. Fatmir remembers the drinks of people who came in only once before, 4 months ago - something that is downright spooky to experience. And Njomza is warm and eager and simply darling. Every single person who comes in for coffee, all morning long, is happy. Every single one. At 6am and 6:30am and 7am, on their way to work, every single person at Crave is openly and obviously happy. Two guys in a City Transportation van are regulars. This morning, as they leave, one calls out, "I hope you make a million dollars today, Fatmir!" Fatmir calls back "Thank you!" as the guy from the city calls back, "Ska perse" - Albanian for "you're welcome." Yes, pretty much all of us regulars are learning at least the niceties in the language of these two people who make us smile every day. Both Fatmir’s and Njomza’s moms arrived from Kosovo this week, to stay for a month. Each day they take turns baking pastries for the bakery counter. And who would I be to say no to their moms? Sweet, dripping in honey and nuts - I have been taking home a different pastry, made by a different mom, each day, eating them after dinner with ouzo poured on top... Arriving there this morning, Njomza and her mom are at a table, sipping coffee. I know how Njomza loves this, like a little treat - not just having her mom here, which is actually a huge treat for her, but sitting on the cafe side of the counter. "It's nice to sometimes just sit in a cafe," she has told me, and I know that when she leaves the counter and sits to look out the window or read the paper, she is pretending that is just what she is doing - just sitting in a cafe. “Miremengjes” I say to mother and daughter as I arrive; Good Morning. They beam at my progress. I stumble on thank you - faleminderit - as her mom, Ermina, tells me she is trying to learn 2 words of English every day. “At the rate we are going, perhaps by the time you leave, we can talk to each other without Njomza having to interpret!" We are two mothers of daughters we love. We've already found common language in that. It’s not even 7am and I’ve already seen Dan caring for Earl, gone for a short walk, had my first sip of delicious coffee, practiced wrapping my tongue around a few words in Albanian, and had Njomza wrap up a mom-made pastry for my dessert after dinner. From there, I nestle into my couch in the corner, to read for an hour or so... As I'm leaving, I ask Ermina how to say goodbye. She tells me - it’s another long word. “Or,” she says, “Tong.” “Tong?” I asked her. “Tong. Like - um (thinking of the word in English) bye. So long.” “What are you telling her?” Njomza hollers from the cash register. “Tong,” says her mom. “Oh yes! Tong!” she says, smiling and waving goodbye to me. And then I’m off, crossing Broadway in the 8:30 rush hour traffic, heading home under the clear blue sky, to feed Nina and water the garden and begin the rest of this writing day. I've been to the wetlands that are Fifth Street west of Swan and I've been to a cafe in Kosovo. Now I'm heading home to my house surrounded by sunflowers, all offspring from those original seeds from Earl's wife. It is a lovely writing time. No beach walks at the end of the day, but sequestered time away in a beautiful place all the same. It just happens this beautiful place is right here at home.